Benaras, ten years apart

There is a version of Benaras that everyone writes about. The one with the boats at sunrise, the smoke, the chanting, the man with the beard who says something profound. I have written that version myself, ten years ago, and I meant every word of it at the time. Going back this year, I found a city that had been rebuilt in parts and left completely alone in others.

Wo ek shaam, Benaras ki!

“Don’t you ever dare to book trips without consulting me. Who asked you anyway.” This was my father’s reaction when I had announced that I booked a trip to Benaras the next month. While I was processing his response which was way different than I had imagined. My mother added, “You think money grows on…

Five places of evergreen tourism of my state, Uttar Pradesh

“Where do you come from? Delhi or Noida?” “Which part of Delhi do you come from?” When I answer, ‘Ghaziabad’ to these questions. I swear, their eyeballs bulge & tongues come out. People in Delhi & all the villages and cities around Delhi think that people from Ghaziabad dress in Black kurta-pyjama, speak in vernacular…

Bare bodies and bare souls, Varanasi

We began with the Ghat where people were bathing and swimming like they were in a pool. A mere dip in the river was supposed to wash away their sins. However, the bare, unclad bodies did not bother anyone and no amount of constant stares could bring embarrassment to the subject.