On my 10-day trip to Bali, what stole my heart was not the beaches, underwater adventures, stunning sunset views, or curated cultural experiences, but the city of Ubud: urban yet deeply cultural, modern yet firmly connected to its roots, full of surprises and stories.

In Ubud, you could remain absent and invisible, and yet feel as though the city had found you, discovered your spirit, and quietly opened the door to a world of wonders.

The stories I had heard about Bali

For many Indians, Bali and the Maldives are the default choices for a post-wedding getaway. Almost everyone in my circle had visited Bali at some point over the last decade, wearing beautiful clothes, clicking even more beautiful pictures, and returning with stories of beaches, sunsets, and luxury resorts. So Bali wasn’t new to me. It had been on my radar for years. Yet when I finally visited it with my husband, I felt as though I had discovered a different Bali from the one I had read about or heard described. Much of the credit for that goes to Ubud – the cultural heart of Bali.

Before the trip, I received countless itineraries listing temples, beaches, waterfalls, and rice terraces, along with cafés to visit, cuisines to try, and experiences not to miss. All useful. All easily available online. In fact, it probably wouldn’t take ChatGPT more than five minutes to generate a dozen such itineraries. But an itinerary, no matter how detailed, cannot tell you how a place will make you feel.

Ubud took me by surprise. Beneath its calm exterior was a playful spirit – one that revealed itself slowly through hidden waterfalls, winding rice-field paths, temple courtyards, tropical rain, and moments of unexpected wonder.

The Rice plantations and sacred temples

One of the first places we visited was the UNESCO World Heritage site of Jatiluwih, with its endless rice plantations painted in every shade of green imaginable. It reminded me of my beloved Munnar back home, and yet it felt entirely different. We were finding our way through the winding roads, reading maps and plotting routes, when it suddenly began to rain. I was wearing the traditional conical Vietnamese hat, convinced it would keep me dry. Instead, the rain found its way through every gap and promptly drenched me. The lush green foliage, the muddy pools, and the pitter-patter of rain were both irritating and soothing at the same time. Part of me wanted to find shelter and sip a hot beverage; another part simply didn’t want to leave. Not just yet.

There were walking trails disappearing deeper into the plantations, inviting those who enjoy long walks with nothing but their thoughts and nature for company. It was the kind of place that encouraged you to slow down, linger, and simply be. After the plantations, we visited some of Bali’s sacred temples and learnt more about Balinese architecture, beliefs, and customs. Water is considered sacred in Bali, and the locals worship Dewi Danu, the goddess of lakes, rivers, and water, at the Ulun Danu Beratan Temple. The temple is iconic because it appears to float upon the waters of Lake Beratan.

Even though we were exploring many of Bali’s most popular attractions, the island somehow felt less like a tourist destination and more like a place deeply connected to nature.

The Cafés, Markets and Serendipity of Ubud

This was perhaps my favourite part of the trip, wandering through the markets and streets of Ubud and stepping into whichever café, restaurant, or eatery happened to catch our attention. We stumbled upon a delightful little place that served coconut beverages, ice creams, and snacks. It was simple and yet absolutely stunning. Another café served some of the best pizzas I have ever eaten; the dough was so good that I completely abandoned all restraint and ended up overeating.

Then there was a café so full of tourists that you could hardly spot a local. Every table seemed to have a story of its own – stories of yoga retreats, mindfulness journeys, sabbaticals, deep meditation, healing, and slow living. Listening to snippets of conversations around me, I found myself wondering what it would be like to trade lives with the person sitting at the next table. The grass looked remarkably fresh and green on the other side.

I also bought far too many souvenirs, gifts, and magnets. At one point, even the shopkeeper gently suggested that I exercise some caution. 😄 I kept swiping my card while the bags continued to pile up at the billing counter.

Perhaps I was trying to bring a little piece of Ubud back home for everyone I loved. A place where the streets are lined with reminders of Hindu gods and ancient traditions, yet the cafés and restaurants welcome every flavour, cuisine, and culture imaginable. A place that feels deeply rooted and wonderfully global at the same time.

The Kecak Dance (Cak-Cak-Cak)

I have grown up listening to the Ramayana at home, with Sundarkand recitations every now and then. I have watched television adaptations, street plays, theatre productions, and staged performances. So many renditions. So many interpretations. I believed I had seen it all, but the Kecak dance is extraordinary. The gods look different, the costumes unfamiliar, and the performance distinctly Balinese. Yet the devotion feels deeply familiar. The dance takes you through the same journey of emotions and leaves you wondering: what if the greatest secret of the world is that there is indeed one God, but God likes to have some fun?

Perhaps God changes appearance, comes to us at different times and in different forms, for different reasons. Perhaps the divine loves us so much that it allows each culture to imagine it in its own way and tell its stories through its own language, symbols, and traditions.

Gods are, perhaps, as we imagine them. And during the Kecak dance, you feel that truth again and again.

Memories and Goodbyes: The ever-welcoming city of Ubud

I spent a few days in and around Ubud, exploring temples, waterfalls, cafés, markets, and everything else that finds its way onto a Bali itinerary, while my husband gladly carried my bags, kept me well-fed with good food, steered me away from queues and crowds, and somehow made everything easier and more fun without taking credit for any of it. He also clicked loads and loads of pictures of me, which was an added bonus.

In moments like these, I realise how lucky one has to be to find someone who loves you through changing seasons of life – through health and illness, calmness and chaos, certainty and doubt. And perhaps even luckier to find someone you choose to love again and again, despite the mistakes, disagreements, and imperfections that come with being human.

I realised this when I stepped into waterfalls with my husband, the only person in this world who can convince me to get into the water and stay there. My trust in him is absolute. I know that no matter what happens, he will not let go of my hand, and somehow, that makes me feel like I will always stay afloat.

I guess Bali does evoke feelings of love. Even though many of us travel to Bali solo, it is also one of those places that feels especially magical when explored with someone you love. Perhaps that is why so many Indian couples choose Bali as their honeymoon destination.

After Ubud, our journey continued through Nusa Penida, Uluwatu, Seminyak, and Canggu. Each destination had its own charm, but somehow, it was Ubud that stayed with me long after the suitcases were unpacked and the photographs were sorted.

If you’re planning a 10-Day Bali trip

Spend 4 days in Ubud. Most people underestimate how much there is to do here. Between the rice terraces, waterfalls, temples, cafés, markets, and cultural performances, Ubud deserves far more than a rushed day trip. Keep 2 days for Nusa Penida. The island is stunning, but the travel can be tiring and the roads are not always the smoothest. Staying overnight allows you to experience it at a more relaxed pace.

Reserve 2 days for Uluwatu. Between the beaches, cliffside views, spectacular sunsets, and the Kecak Dance performance, this ended up being one of my favourite parts of Bali. Spend your final 2 days between Seminyak and Canggu for beach clubs, cafés, shopping, and a more modern, cosmopolitan side of Bali.

Don’t overpack your itinerary. Bali looks small on a map, but traffic can be unpredictable. Some of the best moments come from slowing down rather than checking off attractions.

Leave room for the unexpected. The waterfall you almost skipped, the café you stumbled upon, the sunset you weren’t planning for, or the conversation with a fellow traveller often become the memories that stay with you long after the trip ends.